Tonight is my last night in Pennsylvania. Tomorrow I’ll wake up and quickly be out of Pennsylvania, through West Virginia and just over the border to Ohio.
Pennsylvania, you have been beautiful, physically challenging, and sad. You may be the hardest state I have to cross the whole trip. I am glad to be done with you but please don’t take that as an insult.
Today, summing up the state in my thoughts as I passed scenes that had become stereotypical examples of the state to me I became very depressed. Pennsylvania has been marked by the dying and dead industries of the rust belt, the abandoned, foreclosed, and bankrupt hulks of companies that are either no more or have moved to greener pastures.
As I passed through small towns most of the storefronts stood empty. Those that were still in business had signs sharing their convenient hours of 11-3 on Saturdays. The homes in the country often stood empty waiting for new owners, many with Berkshire-Hathaway, a vacation home real estate agency, as their agents. No one even expects permanent occupation to resume, just hope for some city vacationer to want a run down farm house.
The majority of the time a wave to someone in their yard or on their porch just got me a steely stare and nary a head nod or gesture of the hand. More likely was a stiffening of a suspicious gaze. Those people that were friendly, waved back, said hi, offered help, thank you all. To the rest try relaxing and being less fearful. The no trespassing signs on your lawn are unnecessary and provocative for no reason. Your threatening guard dogs that protect an old dishwasher and a broken down car don’t do you any good. You are just further distancing yourself from the world and perpetuating your own fears of others.
I don’t see this changing anytime soon though. The frequency with which I saw “don’t tread on me” flags hanging from porches made it evident a lot of people think everyone is out to take advantage of them. Worrying about being taken advantage of, or stepped on is a great way to miss out on life yourself. If the majority of the industry in my area was suddenly uprooted and the local economy left in shambles I can see a certain xenophobia developing as well though.
The only thing that seemed able to support a semi thriving town was either seats of government or universities. I’m not sure how the other communities survive. They do not seem to be doing well. Is this what the rest of the journey will look like? Is this what most of America is like? Have I been too long sheltered in the affluence of cities supported by large government workforces, university staff and now in NYC the magic that is a dense city of 8 million people? I see no opportunity out here and it makes me grateful for my home and the chances it gives me.
I fear low density communities aren’t going to continue to survive much longer.
On an aesthetic level I must take issue with the giant rusted star as a type of external home decor. I think counties here must be required to ensure a certain percentage of homes have this as a decoration. Sorry Pennsylvania but this is not an acceptable form of home decor. You can do better Pennsylvania. I know those stars must be on sale at Lowes, but get creative!
Tomorrow I set out to Ohio, increasing flatness, and Jefferson City, my hometown, starting to feel closer and closer now that I’ve crossed the first difficult part of this long journey.
p.s. Thank you to Edward’s Chapel United Methodist for letting me sleep on their property last night. I got to see a great sunrise over the church in the morning.
9 Comments
I have a rusted metal Texas star decorating my balcony at this very moment…
I knew that part could cause controversy… my real beef is with the gigantic 5 ft across ones that act as the sole appointment to one whole bare side of a house. Smaller ones are ok, and I’m a fan of stars on the sides of houses when they are the anchor points for tension rods for earthquake protection. Please don’t take my opinion too seriously.
This may be your best post yet, Tim. I heard your pain in your words and your yearning for something better for all of us to aspire to. May your journey continue to bring enlightenment.
Totally agree, Kathleen and you said it much better than I could have!
Hello Tim,
I am an old friend of your Aunt Kathy’s and I have been enjoying your stories as you travel west. I am also a librarian whose family is from Pennsylvania Dutch (ie., German) country. My relatives don’t live in the rural and small town areas that you write about so I don’t see that part of Pennsylvania. It was enlightening and sad to hear your insightful descriptions of the loss and perhaps anger these people must feel.
You may already know that the “barn stars” as they are called are part of an old PA tradition, dating back at least to the early 19th century. It isn’t entirely clear what their meaning is, although supposedly they were originally a mark of the builder. Some people also claim that they are related to the Amish hex signs which often include stars in the design and are an indication of prosperity. I have seen a recent proliferation of these stars, even in Maryland where I now live, ever since 9/11. Although I have no documentation, I suspect that the stars have taken on a patriotic meaning since the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. I agree that they have been overused, but just wanted to provide some context to your observations.
Good luck on your continued journey. I am enjoying the vicarious trip!
Sounds about like PA. Better times ahead.
Old teaching friend of your Dad’s. We will start watching and hoping all goes well.
Tim, nice meeting you today here in Sandoval, IL. The short time we got to talk about the midwest and NYC was fun. I can’t imagine such a journey. This certainly takes patience and strength; not to mention faith. We wish you well, have a great week at home, enjoy the cooking. We will follow you on this page. May God Bless you.
Great meeting you Tim! You are welcome in Sandoval, IL anytime. Good luck..we will remember you and your journey in our prayers. Hope you got to expereience Wally’s. Enjoy home and remember that old song “California Here I Come”!!